August 02, 2007
Even More Sewing; Corset Done!
(It fits great other than that back cleavage I'm getting.
I wasn't trying to pose in the picture on the right, just
reaching to rub the back of my hand against my mouth.
For some reason I like the pose.)
My corset is totally finished! Ha ha! More pictures will be forthcoming after Gencon and there will be a full review of the pattern I used (TV110) eventually. Here are my general thoughts for now. This pattern is much more "honest" about sizing than the laughing moon pattern. Most patterns (especially for corsets) don't include instructions for custom fitting, so you just have to fail until you figure out how to size them up/down to fit you correctly. This is especially insidious with corsets, since a mock up won't help much with fitting.
The Truly Victorian corset pattern has awesome sizing instructions. Most of the problems I had with fitting (like the top still not quite working) were probably because I ignored parts of the sizing instructions based on my experience with the LM pattern. I have learned the error of my ways and although I still think the TV pattern is not quite nippy enough in the waist for me, I'm going to try to stick closer to the instructions in the future.
I spent some time thinking about construction before I began this one and came up with a hybrid procedure which I think includes the best of both the TV instructions and my previous crazy experiments. I took over 400 pictures while making the corset and I intend to put up instructions with copious illustrations when I have time (probably October at the rate things are going).
I quilted the boning casings into the corset fabric (rather than attaching separate boning casing) and I think this is going to be the way I do things from now on. I generally want to make 2 layer corsets anyway because I tend to tight lace and it was awful nice to skip the whole "figuring out where to attach boning casing" step. On the down side, the corset had less structural integrity, so I ended up adding a total of 44 bones to deal with wrinkles (gah!). Almost all of the bones are spiral steel, since the corset is so curvy.
Despite the fact that it is only a small detail, I'm inordinately proud of the ribbon lace insertion. That lace was not made to have ribbon inserted in it. I perpetuated evil against it, and it worked out very well. I managed to machine sew the lace without incident, although I had to hand finish parts of the ends which were wrapped around the end of the corset. We'll see if I need to tack the ribbon down after I've worn it a few times. I'm not quite sure if the stresses involved there will cause problems in how the ribbon lays on the lace. I could have gone with a different color of 1/4" ribbon, but I like orange.
I also got my petticoat cut out on Wednesday like I was hoping. I'm using the Truly Victorian pattern (TV170) and making it out of some cream colored muslin that I had around for lining and making mock ups. I also bought 8 yards of cream colored eyelet lace to replace the bottom ruffle. This way I don't have to hem the bottom edge (totally worth the $33 for lace, since the circumference of the skirt is going to be huge).
I ended up using the XL, since I'm worried about it eventually being too big. I had to adjust some of the pieces to be a bit shorter, since I'm a short person and the skirt has a 38" waist to floor length built in. I'm also increasingly annoyed that my waist to floor length is very different at the front (36"), side ( 37.5"), and back (38.5"), but I did my best to correct for it.
I rather ambitiously cut out the version of the back ruffle that has tucks in it. I'm still debating about how long I think that's going to take to sew those in. I may give up and trim that piece down if I feel cowardly this evening. I'm hoping to get the whole petticoat done tomorrow night (or at least 90% done) so that I can work on fixing my skirt's waist band over the weekend. I need a better idea of what my corseted waist will be with all my undergarments and the petticoat.
I have to remember to call Joann's during my lunch break some day next week so I can order some white eyelet lace (in the same style as the cream I already have). I eventually want to be able to do up a petticoat (and maybe also drawers) out of the white broadcloth that I have, so I'll need the matching lace. I've been told that the broadcloth will last a lot longer and hold up better than lighter materials.
Comments:Thanks! :D
Those shorts are actually from way, way back in high school gym. :P
I'm definitely not wearing them with my period outfit, but I didn't feel like dealing with my bloomers for the pictures last night.
I wish I had time to make black bloomers and a black chemise before the con. I would love to do a "wandering around in my underwear" thing one of the days.
honey,
i need to say something simple here. you could look gorgeous with a few adjustments. the corset is amazing and you're obviously very talented.
but this outfit is not for you atm. get healthy, get a haircut that leaves your hair layered so it frames your gorgeous face and get contacts. just some advice !
keep designing!
x
Wow x. I'm sure you intended this as a helpful comment, but that is a damn rude thing to say.
That "outfit" as you put it was a temporary construction meant only to let me take pictures of the corset.
If "getting healthy" were as easy as telling me to, I'd already weigh 145 lbs again. I am no so stupid that I don't realize my health needs work. (I am working on it, but that's really not any of your business.)
I generally wear contacts, and frankly I wear my hair in the only way that is practical for me. (Also, not any of your business.)
In the future, please keep your "helpful" comments to yourself.
Hi Eva,
I was looking through the i-net when I saw your corset. You really made it yourself? I really want to learn that too.. maybe you can give me some advice..a few tips..
Best wishes, Evelien(From Hollan).
Hi Evelien,
It's a lot easier to sew than you might think. I learned how using the Laughing Moon Merchantile pattern (http://www.lafnmoon.com/victunder.htm) and the corset kit and online classes from Farthingales (http://www.farthingales.on.ca/).
My favorite pattern is the Truly Victorian one (http://www.trulyvictorian.com/catalog/110.html) and that's the one I used for this corset. The sizing on this patter is amazingly easy and the instructions are awesome. ;)
If you have questions feel free to email me. :) I'd also highly recommend joining the Truly Victorian forums (http://www.trulyvictorian.netfirms.com//testboard/phpBB2/index.php?sid=81c3d8f1912c9d2a535341264397c092). There are lots of lovely knowledgeable ladies there who are always happy to answer detailed questions and give advice. :)
Wow this looks awesome! =)
I am going to try my hand at making a fashion corset -- it isn't suitable for tight lacing -- from a commercial pattern (Simplicity 4902).
I read online somewhere that it might be better to take the corset to a shoemaker or someone else to have the grommets/eyelets installed professionally. Do you think that's sound advice? I've done grommets before, but they were certainly a pain, and they didn't come out as nicely as they could have. Though theoretically, with the past experience, I'd do better this time...
posted byanchovylove : 5/03/2008 10:28 AM
Hi anchovylove! :)Post a Comment
I generally use eyelets and washers (I buy them from http://www.farthingales.on.ca/) and I haven't had any problems setting them so far. I've got a plyers-like tool with the eyelet dies on it that works great. If you want to do grommets you're probably going to have to hammer set them, but it's still not very difficult.
Individual eyelets/washers/grommets are relatively cheap, so make sure you have extra ones and practice on some scrap fabric before you start working on your actual corset back. You also might want to put the grommets in as the first step (before you sew the pieces together) so that if you do have problems you won't have to re-do much work.
Be a little careful of the Simplicity pattern. Their corsets tend to run several sizes large, so be sure to measure the pieces and/or make a muslin beforehand. :)
If you have problems or find you've got other questions feel free to email me (http://www.digitalchangeling.com/email.html). I can't promise I'll know the answers, but I'll be happy to try and help. :)
Good Luck!
Eva
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